Veluthaattu Vadakkan Chovva Bhagavathy Temple

Veluthaattamma: The Goddess Who Calls You Home

Mars, or Chovva, has an rather unfortunate reputation in astrology. Of the nine planetary deities, or Navagrahas, Chovva is often regarded as a troublesome presence—particularly when it comes to marriage. Chovva dosham, or an unfavourable influence of Mars, is traditionally believed to cause delays in marriage and bring obstacles and difficulties into one’s life.

The Navagrahas occupy an important place in many temples across Kerala. They are worshipped with elaborate poojas and mantras, in the hope of appeasing them and warding off their more troublesome influences.

It was quite by chance, during a conversation with a friend, that I first heard about the Veluthaattu Vadakkan Chovva Bhagavathy Temple.

Tucked away in Kedamangalam, near North Paravur in Ernakulam district, this ancient temple has stood for more than eight centuries. It is dedicated to Chovva Bhagavathy, a powerful form of the Goddess who is worshipped here in several manifestations—as Saraswathy, Parvathy, Durga and Lakshmi, as well as the fierce Bhadrakali.

But it is the story behind the temple that makes it particularly fascinating.

A Goddess with two faces

More than 800 years ago, the illustrious Veluthaattu Mana was renowned for its spiritual healers. The family followed traditional rituals and practices with great devotion and discipline.

The then Veluthaattu Namboothiri had a faithful assistant named Kummippilly Nair, who accompanied him everywhere. Though not a Brahmin himself, Kummippilly Nair was thoroughly familiar with the rituals and traditions practised by the Namboothiris.

It was around this time that a young girl in the locality was believed to have become severely possessed. Her condition grew increasingly frightening. She became violent and would attack anyone who approached her with the intention of curing her.

After several unsuccessful attempts, her family finally sought the help of the Namboothiri of Veluthaattu Mana.

The Namboothiri sent Kummippilly Nair to deal with the girl.

He identified the spirit possessing her as Chovva Bhagavathy—an entity believed to possess two very different aspects. One was gentle, benevolent and protective; the other was fierce, destructive and troublesome.

Kummippilly Nair managed to overcome the destructive aspect and brought the benevolent spirit back with him to Veluthaattu Mana. There, she was given a place of prominence alongside the other deities and began to be worshipped regularly.

And so began the association of Chovva Bhagavathy with Veluthaattu Mana.

From Mana to temple

Years passed. Eventually, a period of intense internal strife forced the Veluthaattu Mana family to leave the area and move to Tirur in Malappuram.

Before leaving, the Namboothiri entrusted the Mana, along with its divine spirits and possessions, to Kummippilly Nair.

Chovva Bhagavathy subsequently became the family's Upasana Moorthy—its principal deity of worship.

It did not take long for word of her benevolence and divine powers to spread. People began coming from near and far to seek her blessings.

Her reputation grew particularly because she was believed to have the power to remove the obstacles caused by Chovva dosham. Those troubled by delayed marriages or difficulties attributed to the unfavourable influence of Mars began seeking her blessings.

Even today, devotees travel considerable distances to pray to Chovva Bhagavathy and seek her help in removing obstacles from their lives.

The rituals and the other deities

The temple offers several forms of worship according to the needs of the devotee, including various Pushpanjalis, Para Nirakkal and Guruthi. The poojas are conducted according to traditional Brahminical practices by the lineage of Tanthris from Manappad Mana.

But Chovva Bhagavathy is not the only deity who resides here.

The temple is also home to several powerful Upadevatas, each worshipped with great reverence. Vettakkaran Swamy, Kalladikodu Neeli Bhagavathy and Vellayam Bhagavathy are among them. Sree Dharmasastha occupies the south-western corner of the temple, while Sree Muthappan Swamy faces the temple.

Chathan is also worshipped here.

The Navagrahas are situated in the north-eastern corner, while the sacred grove outside the temple compound is home to the Nagadevathas—Nagaraja, Nagayakshi and the other serpent deities.

There are also shrines dedicated to Dampathy Rakshas and Durga Bhagavathy.

Regular poojas and offerings are made to all these deities, seeking their protection and blessings.

And then there was Veluthaattamma

Chovva Bhagavathy is affectionately known as Veluthaattamma.

And apparently, Veluthaattamma has a particular fondness for jewellery.

She certainly looks the part.

The Goddess is adorned in an abundance of gold and finery, and the sanctum sanctorum glows with the soft, flickering light of countless oil lamps.

I had heard quite a bit about this powerful Bhagavathy before I visited the temple.

But nothing—not the stories, not the descriptions, not anything I had been told—prepared me for what I saw when I finally stood before her.

There was an extraordinary radiance about the deity.

The golden ornaments caught the light of the oil lamps, and everything seemed to shimmer in a warm, almost otherworldly glow. I stood there quietly, completely transfixed.

For a few moments, the noise of the world seemed to disappear.

I simply stood before her.

There was something strangely comforting about that moment. Not the kind of comfort that comes from being reassured that everything will be all right, but something deeper and harder to explain.

A feeling of having arrived somewhere I was meant to be.

I stood there for a long time, humbled and utterly spellbound, reluctant to take my eyes away from her.

It felt, quite inexplicably,

as though I had come home.